Went to a semi secret surf spot in Malibu. While the spot I normally would surf in big surf was quite crowded there were maybe 15 other surfers in the water and 5 of them were friends of mine who came to surf with me. I caught a few bug ones. Had 2 or 3 nice long rides. problem with a long ride is the paddle back. After surfing for almost 2 hours I was very tired. So of course who wants to hear from their friend who stayed in that the best waves came after you left. But thats what one of my friends said that after I left there were rideable 8-10 foot waves. The biggest I was on was probably 6 feet. Oh well next time. It was still a blast.
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